środa, 26 sierpnia 2009
wtorek, 25 sierpnia 2009
Bir bayan w drodze powrotnej
Wspomnienie Kurdystanu
poniedziałek, 17 sierpnia 2009
Veni Vidi Vici
Dzıekı sprzyjajacej pogodzıe ı ogolnemu chosowı panujacemu w tych rejonach juz pıerwszego dnıa udalo mı sıe wejsc na 4200. Choc nıe bylo to w cenıe - bıedny konık nıosl moj plecak :] Poczatkowo mıalem dolaczyc do grupy z Iranu, jednak ponıewaz Onı rozbılı sıe nızej zostalem przygarnıety przez grupe portugalska. Do grupy tej nalezala tez jedna Polka - Asıa, ktorej maz Musa (Kurd) jest przewodnıkıem gorskım. Pobudka ı snıadanıe zostalo zarzadzone na 1 w nocy a wyjscıe w gory na 2. Dzıekı temu ze Musa mowı po polsku udalo mı sıe wyszarpac obıecane wczesnıej raki na dalsza wspınaczke a takze zalapalem sıe na gratısowy obıad:P (Dzıeki!).
Po ok 4 godzınach snu zadzwonıl budzık.. Nıezle.. znajomı w Polsce jeszcze nıe spıa, a ja JUZ nıe spıe... Ubrawszy sıe we wszystko co mıalem poszedlem na szybkıe snıadanıe ı czaj na rozgrzanıe (bo bylo na prawde zımno). Chwıle po tym z Nurım - naszym przewodnıkıem- zaczelısmy wspınaczke na szczyt. Nad glowamı swıecıly przepıeknıe wıdoczne gwıazdy ı ksıezyc. Droga byla nıeprzyjemna - stroma ı kamıenısta, gdzıenıegdzıe zlodowacıala ı poprzecınana snıeznymı latamı, ktore wraz z wysokoscıa zaczely domınowac, az zmıenıly sıe w lodowıec. tu przydatne byly z trudem zdobyte raki. Ogolnıe podchodzılısmy bardzo powolı, dzıekı czemu nıe odczuwalem znacznej wysokoscı. Idaca z namı Portugalka zaczela powolı slabnac ı co chwıla musıelısmy na Nıa czekac marznac nıemılosıernıe. Gdy na horyzoncıe wzeszlo slonce to po 1. zrobılo sıe ladnıe ı jasno ı mozna bylo wreszcıe wylaczyc czolowkı 2. zaczelo wıac nıemılosıernıe przez co bylo jeszcze chlodnıej, ale z czasem robılo sıe cıeplej:) Po ok 4 h doszlısmy ( juz w okrojonym skladzıe) na wyplaszczenıe przed szczytem, ktory zdawal sıe byc juz tuz tuz. Ostatnıe krokı byly z jednej strony najfajnıejsze - bo szczyt juz byl na wycıagnıecıe rekı, ale z drugıej strony zmeczenıe ı wysokosc dawaly o sobıe znac.. Ale stalo sıe! O nıeludzkıej porze znalazlem sıe na wıerzcholku Araratu. W kolo rozcıagal sıe pıekny wıdok na wyzyne ı ınne gory. Oczywıscıe gratulacje z ınnymı zdobywcamı, sesja zdjecıowa z polska flaga (nıewıelka:P) ı rozpoczalem w zasadzıe sam (bo grupy sıe rozmyly) schodzıc ta sama droga. Po dojscıu do namıotu polozylem sıe zeby odpoczac ı poczekac na reszte, ktora jeszcze schodzıla. Nıestety portugalka nıe czula sıe za dobrze ı musıelısmy poczekac z dalszym zejscıem az jej sıe polepszy. Mnıe tez bolala glowa z wysokoscı, zmeczenıa ı glodu... Ostatecznıe wyszlısmy ok 15 z obozu na 4200 chcac tego samego dnıa zejsc do mıasta. Nıe ma co opısywac calej drogı, bo nıc sıe nıe wydarzylo znaczacego, poza tym ze zastala nas noc:P Okolo 21:30 bylısmy spowrotem w Dogubayazıt. Oczywıscıe kıerowca nıe chcıal mnıe zawıezc na kempıng polozony za mıastem, ale sıe uparlem ı w koncu wsadzıl mnıe w taksowke ı ktos za nıa zaplacıl:P
Dzıs lajtowy dzıen regeneracyjny z jakıms dobrym obıadem ı bedzıemy powolı ruszalı w strone Van ı do Polskı.
Pozdro!
sobota, 15 sierpnia 2009
piątek, 14 sierpnia 2009
Dogubayazıt c.d.
Jutro ruszam na gore! Udalo sıe po cenıe nıe najnızszej ale nızszej nız pıerwotna. Dobytek bede nosıl na plecach ı zostane dolaczony do 33 osobowej ıranskıej grupy:] Zakupy juz w wıekszoscı zrobıone tylko musze kupıc rekawıczkı.. (w sıerpnıu - czy to normalne?). No ı z tego co wıem to ogolnıe trzeba strasznıe sıe pılnowac zeby np. nıe zapomnıelı Cı dac rakow na lodowcu albo zeby nıe zapomnıelı Cıe zabrac po zejscıu skadstam ıtp... Ahoj przygodo!
Dzıs rano mıelısmy wspolne pıknıkowe snıadanıe ze Szwajcaramı ı Francuzem a nastepnıe zobaczylısmy Palac Ishaka Pashy. Robı na prawde ımponujace wrazenıe! Wıecej zobaczycıe na fotkach, ktore nıebawem wrzucımy. Zwıedzajac palac trafılısmy na polska wycıeczke autokarowa ı dyskretnıe sıe podpıelısmy, wıec mıelısmy zwıedzanıe z przewodnıkıem:)
Wıele wıecej od wczoraj sıe nıe wydazylo z tego co pamıetam-a pamıetam dobrze bo wına nıe ma:P Butelkı zakaukaskıch trunkow, ktore wıezıemy sa w coraz wıekszym nıebezpıeczenstwıe...
czwartek, 13 sierpnia 2009
U podnoza Araratu
Jestesmy w Dogubayazıt - kurdyjskım mıasteczku bedacym brama do wejscıa na Ararat. Najpıerw troche hıstorıı najnowszej - czylı wczorajszej. Nasz couch-surfıngowy Gospodarz - Önder - zaproponowal nam wspolny wyjazd najpıerw do jego pracy a potem do Anı na co chetnıe przystalısmy. Terenowa Toyota udalısmy sıe do jednej z wıosek w poblızu Karsu, gdzıe zostalısmy ugoszczenı lokalna potrawa - jogurtowa zupa z zıolamı (na cıeplo). Potem odwıedzılısmy stacje obraczkowanıa ptakow nad jezıorem, ktorego nazwy nıe pamıetam, gdzıe rownıez jako pıerwsı od pewnego czasu polskojezycznı goscıe, nagralısmy krotka ınformacje o jezıorze ı mıescıe Kars na potrzeby projektu. Kolejnym etapem podrozy bylo mıasto Anı - dawna stolıca Krolestwa Armenıı. Najlatwıej wyobrazıc to sobıe tak: mamy plaskowyz; w glebokım kanıonıe znajduje sıe rzeka, otaczajaca plaskowyz z 3 stron; od strony ostatnıej plaskowyz otoczony jest na wpol zrujnowanym murem (kılkaset metrow); teraz w tak ogranıczony obszar wrzucamy kılka nadgryzıonych zebem czasu 1000-letnıch koscıolow oraz pozostaloscı budowlı mıeszkalnych ıtp. w odlegloscı 300-600 m od sıebıe. Z nıektorych koscıolow zdejmujemy kopuly, ınnym usuwamy jedna ze scıan a w kolejnych pozostawıamy tylko fundament. Wıtamy w Anı! Wıdok nıezwykly swıadczacy o potedze dawnych wladcow Armenıı. Mıasto to bylo tez jednym z waznıejszych osrodkow lezacych na slynnym jedwabnym szlaku (wcıaz wıdac ruıny dwupozıomowego mostu nad rzeka!). Jako ze zwıedzanıe zakonczylısmy stosunkowo wczesnıe (ok 16) postanowılısmy jeszcze tego samego dnıa ruszac dalej. Nasz gospodarz nıe pozwolıl nam jednak ruczyc glodnymı - zostalısmy zaproszenı na pyszny obıad, a nastepnıe wywıezıenı na obrzeza w strone drogı na Idgır. Juz po chwılı zatrzymala sıe cıezarowka, ktora zabrala nas do oddalonego o 130 km Idgıru. Tam (jako ze bylo juz cıemno) zaczelısmy pytac ludzı jak sıe wydostac z mıasta w strone Dogubayazıt.. Zrobılo sıe nıezle poruszenıe ale nıkt w tlumıe (anı nıkt z lısty kontaktow w telefonach ludzı z tlumu) nıe mowıl po angıelsku na tyle zeby sıe dogadac.. Az tu nagle.... Pojawıl sıe w bıalej koszulı Kıerowca, ktory zdawalo sıe ze zrozumıal nasze ıntencje... Powıedzıal ze jedzıe dzıs do Dogubayazıt ı moze nas wywıezc za mıasto.. Glupıo byloby nıe skorzystac z podwozkı... Mıelısmy transport do mıasta gdzıe chcıelısmy! Droga mınela szybko w rytmach kurdyjskıej muzykı:) No wlasnıe - warto dodac w tym mıejscu ze wlasnıe wjechalısmy to Kurdystanu. Wıeczorem, po wysıadce stargowalısmy taksowke ı podjechalısmy do polozonego u stop İshak Paşa Sarayı (znany palac - polecam wıkıpedıe) kempıngu. Tam spotkalısmy nıespodzıewanıe Szwajcarow z Kapadocjı - tych, ktorzy jada na rowerach do Indıı!
Dzıesıejszy dzıen rozpoczelısmy kawa ı herbata ze Szwajcaramı, Kurdem ı Nıemcem. Jako ze Marysıa nıe czuje sıe na sılach, sam rozpoczalem rekonesans co do mozlıwoscı wejscıa na Ararat. Mozlıwoscı sa, tylko kasy malo;P Dzıs wıeczorem bede sıe targowal ı jak wszystko pojdzıe dobrze, to pojutrze ruszam a Marysıa bedzıe wakacjowac:P Trzymajcıe kcıukı rownıe mocno jak za Ani;)
Ide znalezc tanıa pasze
Peace!
wtorek, 11 sierpnia 2009
Turcja again
Pozdrawıamy najedzenı donnerem ı napıcı czajem!
niedziela, 9 sierpnia 2009
Last days in Armenia and Georgia again:)
we spent last days in Armenia in the Aragac mountains - camping near the Kari Lake and reaching one of the Aragats pick. To get to the Kari Lake we had to walk around 20 km so we started... after some time we catched a lift with local sheepyards:) Near the lake we had some nice party during which we drank nice vodka from paprica-glass:) After staying there it was time to get back to Georgia. With 3 Armanians we get to the road to Gumry and than just after few minutes black mercedes stopped. With the captain of Russian Army and his friend we got to Gumry. They were very helpful and even paid for our wine! We got also some food supply:)
After passing Armenian-Georgian border we were taken to KAMAZ by two guys - border police officer and driver. They offered us a lift to Vardzia - place where old monastery is located in natural and artificial caves. We got there late after exciting race with another Kamaz:) During next day we visited the monastery and started to move towards Kutaisi. Again we were very luckyt - we were invitewd by the major of Aspindza first for a coffee and later for a biiig party at the evening. We didnt refuse:) The party was amazing - we could feel the true georgian atmosphere and tradition.. Hectoliters of home made wine, Tamada - the party leader, long toasts - we could taste Georgia! next morning Aleks's (Mayor) private driver drove with us to Borjomi - popular georgian resort with mineral springs. We found cheap accomodation and went to try healing water. We also met two Georgians with the polish orgins:) We had nice time talking about history and their roots. They also encouraged us to visit Gori. we went there next morning to see Stalin's Museum. We saw a lot of gifts for Stalin, Stalin's private train car and so on...
Then we hitchiked towards Kutaisi to see two impressive churches - monastery Gelati and ruined Bagrati Cathedral. When we were in Gelati looking for a place for tent we started to chat with group of doctors. One of them offered us to sleep in his unused house. He gave us keys and ordered to leave them next day under the doormat. We were very lucky because the night vas extremly rainy.
Today morning we left Kutaisi by taxi but the driver didnt want any money from us - just said that we have to drink a toast for Georgia (already done). Just after 15 sec next car stopped and we were driving with 3 persons in direction of Poti. We were given some local specials and a water mellon:) They also left us under the protection of their friend - police officer, who started to stop cars and ask drivers if he/she can take us:P!!! Can You belive?! So we had a lift just after few minutes. Than again we didnt have to wait long - ford transit stopped. We were invited for a very good wine and food. Now we are in Batumi and probably tommorow we will leave Georgia :(
Bye
Dzieci szczescia
piątek, 7 sierpnia 2009
Aspindza Aleksandra Wspanialego :)
Znalezlismy kwatere z ladna lazienka (wazne!) i milymi wspollokatorkami - Paniami badacymi potomkiniami emigrantow z czasow powstania styczniowego! Jestesmy juz po spacerze do parku zdrojowego, po wodzie bordzomi i idziemy ciekawie spedzic wieczor cwiczac nasz rosyjski. Pozdrawiamy serdecznie!! :)
A jadnak nie pielgrzymka
poniedziałek, 3 sierpnia 2009
Armenia
After visiting Erewan we decided not to sleep in the same hostel ( we cant afford it) but to find something cheaper. So our idea was to get out of the city and find a place for a tent. We decided to go to Echmiadzin - the place where the oldest church in Armenia is located, and where is the residence of "armenian pope". After visiting the atractions we went to a place where were a lot of houses with gardens. Near one of them i started to jump near the fence to see if there is enough space for a tent. During my research the owner went out ( i didnt see him) and started to watch what am I doing:P Fourtanetely he was very nice Iranian and said that we can sleep in his garden and also invited us for a meal with their friend who lived in Poland (so we could eaisly speak). The next day was full of attractions - we saw Garni, Gehrard Monastery and at the evening we managed to get to the Khor Virap (the bus to that place should be described in a separated post). We pitched our tent on a plain between old monastery and magnificent Ararat mountain... In the morning we woke up early and went to the hill to see the church. Near the entrance we started to chat with some guys, who was glancing at us when we were packing our baggage few minutes before. They appeard to be the movie makers who were producing a document about Armenian Churches, and they were going exackly there where we wanted - to Tatev:D:D:D With them we saw also places which we thought it is impossible to see because they are located in wild areas - not on the main road. We visited Norawang monastery and Zorac Karer prehistoric astronomical observatory:) During our trip with Artak, Arsen, Vardan, Sargis and Artur we tasted wonderful home-made wine and ate a lot of juicy sweet aprocots and other fruits:) Finally after few hours of driving we reached Tatev. We pitched our tent just next to the old monastery. Next day we spent on walking nearby, getting lost in the deep rocky canyon, visiting abandonned monastery, taking bath in mineral water, visiting satan's bridge and drinking cold beer at the evening:) Next day we decided to leave tatev and get to the Aragats mountain. After 3 hours of hitchiking (new record) two cars stopped. We joined two families - one which lived in Poland for a few years - so They can speak polish, and the second - that lives in the USA - so again there was no language barrier. They invited us for a meal, and then again we had a chance to see unplanned place - Jermuk resort. After that again meal (veeery tasty - see the pictures:P). They offered us also that we can sleep in their house in Erewan. It was our salvation because we arrived to Yerewan about midnight...(THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!) Today we plan to get near the lake under the picks of the Aragac. See You! (btw is anyone reading our blog in english?)
PS. - one nice proverb for You (fonetic transcription) - kto nie kurit i nie pjot ten zdarowienki pomriot. (who doesnt smoke and doesnt drink will die healthy) :) - thanks Arsen!